A journey to Sicilian wonder

A new journey awaits us. Agrigento is a dive into an authentic Sicily, rich in history, flavors, and unforgettable encounters. This story is an invitation to discover the wonders of this land, a journey that winds through ancient temples and hidden villages, amid the conviviality of lavishly laid tables and the allure of breathtaking landscapes.
The journey to Agrigento begins on a warm day in May, a prelude to what awaits us. The green and flowery valleys, the grazing flocks, seem like a painting, carefully crafted by an artist. We arrive at a small B&B in the center of Agrigento and, after dropping off our bags, we head to an enchanted place: a small restaurant hidden in the evocative Valley of the Temples.

A corner of paradise among the temples

This “corner of paradise” is an ancient yellow sandstone farmhouse, with an open kitchen that smells of home. The cooks work among stone ovens and wood and marble tables, preparing typical seasonal dishes. Outside, a well, a lush garden of aromatic plants and vegetables, and an explosion of colorful flowers create an enchanting play of colors, while curious cats wander undisturbed. All this is framed by a breathtaking view of the majestic temples on one side and the sea on the other.

With pleasant background music, we enjoy a glass of local white wine, accompanied by freshly baked focaccia with cheese and anchovies and a delicious dessert with saffron cream, passion fruit jelly, and pistachio sponge. A true riot of flavors in a place that transports us to the ancient Sicily of the Greek gods. We say goodbye to Fabio, an old acquaintance who runs this magical place, and head to a renowned restaurant near the Valley of the Temples.

Authentic flavors and special encounters

Here, Giuseppe, the owner, welcomes us warmly. We sit down and savor a delicious lunch: grilled octopus with potato sauce and swordfish flan. Everything delicious! After a coffee and a moment of relaxation, we set off for Naro, to visit one of our partners: an ancient olive oil mill.

Along the deserted road, the rain begins to fall, filling the air with that scent of wet earth we love so much. This, combined with the greenery of the cultivated countryside, the imposing wind turbines, and the endless spaces, creates a truly evocative atmosphere. Welcoming us at the mill is Lorenzo, a company employee and a family friend for generations. A comprehensive tour of the mill allows us to better understand the olive pressing process and reveal previously unknown curiosities. A welcoming tasting room, steeped in history, takes us back to ancient Sicilian traditions, reinterpreted with a modern twist while maintaining their essence intact. We are given a can of oil, which we can’t wait to try.

Amidst cellars and life stories

We bid farewell to Lorenzo, and since our workday isn’t over yet, we set off to discover a new estate. We are welcomed by Giuseppe and Federico, father-in-law and son-in-law, who have worked together for years to promote their company and offer unique experiences to travelers. We tour the winery, and between family stories, we discover that although he isn’t Sicilian, he fell in love with our land thanks to his wife, Mariachiara, and thus decided to embark on this journey, commuting between Milan and Agrigento. It’s always wonderful to hear these life stories, the intertwining and cultural exchanges that create magical synergies.

We settle into the sofas outside the estate, enjoying a glass of wine and various traditional products, accompanied by good music alongside other guests, during “Cantine Aperte.” The wind ruffles our hair, and the feeling is a blend of wonderful emotions. It’s a shame the weather isn’t clement; suddenly it turns into a winter day, with cold wind and rain. While the other guests move inside, we chat again with the owners, saying goodbye with the promise of new and exciting experiences and collaborations for travelers. After a long day, we return to the B&B to rest. We are very tired but satisfied, and we fall into a deep sleep almost immediately, looking forward to new experiences the following day.

Discovering the historic center

We wake up early in the morning, have breakfast at the bar, and after dropping off our bags, we head to the center of Agrigento. We snap a few photos along its characteristic narrow streets as we search for the Monastery of Santo Spirito. We arrive and visit the oldest part, where sandstone columns and vaults and the lush garden exude the place’s ancient charm.

After a few photos, we prepare for a captivating experience: we ring the monastery bell to buy typical sweets made by the nuns who live there. We choose our treats and continue our stroll along the main street, where the unexpected parade of two vintage fire trucks pleasantly surprises us. A mandatory photo with the bronze statue of Andrea Camilleri, and then we head to the car. Our friend Annalisa is waiting for us in her new country house!

A welcome that smells like home

We arrive at our destination along a country road lined with corn ears, poppies, olive trees, cherry trees, carob trees, fig trees, cultivated fields, and small vineyards. We already feel revitalized. Annalisa welcomes us with her family, with the same joy and enthusiasm she puts into her work and her life. She shows us her new home, which she is slowly renovating with Ninni, her new life partner. Every corner smells of home, authenticity, tradition, and Sicily!

We sit at the table for lunch, carefully set with antique porcelain plates, embroidered tablecloths, carafes of local wine, and water with lemon and mint. Every detail makes us feel pampered. We begin with a rich appetizer of fresh ricotta, tomato salad, salami, eggplant in oil, and delicious homemade bread. We continue with trofiette with lemon pesto, truly mouth-watering!

After a coffee and a glass of delicious homemade limoncello, we take a walk in the countryside. Annalisa and Ninni tell us the story of this house and their plans. It’s a true corner of paradise, with a vegetable garden, chickens, ducks, plants, flowers, a charming palmento (a traditional wine press) and relaxation areas, history and tradition, excellent cuisine, and so much love in the air. The saddest moment has arrived: we must say goodbye. As always, the Sicilian welcome is unique, and we return home with our hands full: Annalisa gives us limoncello and countless oranges and lemons.

The return and the magic of Etna

Returning home, a glimpse of snow-capped Etna surprises us on a Sunday in late May, contrasting with the green and flowery expanses, the ochre patches of dry grass, the vineyards, and countless bales of hay. This is one of the many special features of our beloved island!

This is Sicily: nature, food, traditions, folklore, cities, countryside, mountains, volcanoes, sea, small villages, hospitality, friendship, and authenticity. Sicily is Maravigghia!

We are ready for a new experience … are you?