Discovering Grammichele
A new adventure awaits us! Today, we set off again, eager to explore and discover Grammichele, nestled like a gem at the western foot of the Iblei Mountains, in the province of Catania.
Antonella had promised us a journey through time and flavors, with a two-day educational tour to discover the soul of this land and its young custodians, entrepreneurs who passionately cultivate family roots and invest in the exuberant surrounding beauty. The Sicilian spring welcomes us with an embrace of warm sunshine and a gentle breeze. Along the way, our eyes were lost in the enchantment of emerald valleys, a riot of flowers that paint the landscape with vibrant brushstrokes. Upon reaching our green oasis, a refuge among fragrant citrus groves, a lush vegetable garden, a cheerful playground, and welcoming farmhouses, we met Antonella. Sipping coffee together and enjoying a homemade tart, a concentration of the sun-kissed local oranges, we met other locals from various Sicilian provinces and as far away as Malta.
The History of Occhiolà and the Hexagonal Rebirth
A comfortable transfer took us to the heart of Grammichele, a unique place with its hexagonal square, an urban hallmark that defines the entire town. The genesis of this singular shape, as our knowledgeable guide in the town hall museum revealed, has its roots in the tragic history of Occhiolà. It was 1693 when a devastating earthquake razed the ancient village to the ground, swallowing over a thousand souls beneath the rubble of its churches.
It was Prince Carlo Maria Carafa of Branciforte who initiated the rebirth, moving the town center and entrusting Friar Michele da Ferla with the task of drawing the hexagonal plan of the new city on a slate board. An enlightened urban planning choice, a rare example of rational architecture that was also echoed in the reconstruction of Avola. Strolling through the nearly identical sestieri, we noticed the only exception: the prince’s house, left unfinished due to his untimely death.
Among museums and testimonies of the past
The testimonies of Occhiolà’s life touched our hearts: manuscripts yellowed by time, humble terracotta plates, everyday furnishings, and precious ceramic nativity scenes, guardians of ancient traditions. The municipal archives revealed paper treasures, centuries-old books that tell forgotten stories, while the civic museum took us on an even further journey back in time, among funerary jars that evoke ancestral rites, silent amphorae that bear witness to ancient trade, wooden looms that recount the toil and art of weaving, the reconstruction of a crater that made us imagine primordial volcanic landscapes, and images of the venerated Demeter, goddess of fertility and harvest, to whom the Sicilian land has always been devoted.
The square, the sundials, and the “pupone”
We admire the square from the balcony of the Town Hall, then return to its beating heart and contemplate one of the many sundials that dot the town, also commissioned by the far-sighted Prince Carafa. At the center, an imposing bronze “pupone” supports the sundial, watched over by a statue of the prince, a tribute to his urban planning vision.
Tradition and flavor at the pasta factory
We move on to the Iudica pasta factory, where we met Flavia, who, together with her father and brother, continues the family tradition begun by her grandparents: the cultivation of grains, legumes, and citrus fruits. While Flavia showed us the art of transformation, from grain to pasta, from flour to fragrant bread and crunchy biscuits, we sipped freshly squeezed orange juice that tasted of spring and tasted delicious, melt-in-the-mouth pastries. After taking a few souvenir photos and purchasing their artisanal pasta, we said goodbye to our hosts, ready to continue our exploration.
Between Memory and Spirituality
Walking through the streets, we reached the small square of the Church of San Leonardo, where our guide showed us two commemorative works that evoke the lost Occhiolà and the daily life of its inhabitants. A few more photographs to immortalize these signs of memory, and then we returned to the farmhouse, where a sumptuous lunch awaited us.
A lunch of authentic flavors
A triumph of authentic flavors delighted our palates: fresh, velvety ricotta, caponata rich in Mediterranean aromas, flavorful parmigiana, crispy fritters, golden arancinetti, an unusual and refreshing orange and onion salad, a creamy mushroom risotto, and fragrant baked pasta, all washed down with excellent house wine. After this hearty meal, we set off again, heading to the Archaeological Area of Occhiolà.
The Archaeological Area of Occhiolà
An immense expanse of greenery frames the silent remains of the ancient village, a place where time passed slowly and the church was the hub of community life and prayer. From a breathtaking vantage point, the view sweeps across the entire valley, and on clear days, you can glimpse the majesty of Mount Etna and the promontory on which the castle once stood. Lush nature surrounds us: swaying ears of corn, yellow and purple flowers sprouting from the grass, wild asparagus, curiously shaped prickly pears, the intense scent of wild fennel and other wild herbs—an explosion of uncontaminated life!
The Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano
Listening to the passionate tales of our guide and breathing in the pure air of this place steeped in history, we set off again toward an ancient church, the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Piano. Inside, the splendor of the Baroque welcomed us with frescoes depicting a host of saints and a copy of a canvas depicting the Madonna del Piano. We learned that this sanctuary was once a refuge for weary travelers, who found hospitality and refreshment here for themselves and their animals in small cells. Outside, during the holidays, a special ritual took place: the slaughter of pigs, selected and sold to the citizens, who traditionally had not consumed this meat before.
Projects and Local Development
After taking a few photos outside the sanctuary, we headed back to our welcoming facility. A brief moment to refresh ourselves, and then we joined the other local operators and our group for an interesting conference.
New projects, which showcase the richness of the Calatino area, a district encompassing eight municipalities in central-eastern Sicily, part of the metropolitan city of Catania: Caltagirone, Grammichele, Licodia Eubea, Mineo, Mirabella Imbaccari, San Cono, San Michele di Ganzaria, and Vizzini. Other municipalities are joining this ambitious local development plan, including Mazzarrone, Castel di Iudica, Palagonia, Raddusa, Ramacca, and Niscemi. This vast inland area, nestled between the Erei and Iblei mountains, is a treasure trove of pastoral traditions, with a thriving cheese production, the cultivation of cereals and ancient grains that produce fine flours, the emergence of craft breweries, the cultivation of succulent prickly pears and fragrant asparagus, ancient mills that produce excellent pasta, expanses of olive groves, and lush vineyards.
An evening of flavor and conviviality
After the comprehensive presentation, each of us shared our emotions and reflections on this project, which promises to enhance a region so rich in history and resources. A short recap video brought to life the day’s highlights and the pleasant atmosphere that had been created among us all.
Meanwhile, the adjacent room was transformed into a temple of taste, a sumptuous tasting of typical local products: a variety of cheeses that told the story of the pastures, fragrant focaccias, breads and breadsticks of a thousand textures, pasta dishes with sauces that enhanced the flavors of the land, fresh salads, sausage and grilled vegetables, desserts that melted away any hesitation, all accompanied by excellent wine and craft beer. An explosion of goodness and authenticity! Pleasant music provided the soundtrack to this feast of the senses.
A night in the countryside and a waking up in nature
After dinner, we chatted with the other guests, and in this corner of paradise, the sounds of nature enveloped us in a nostalgic embrace: the song of night birds, the chirping of crickets, the croaking of frogs… an echo of our country childhood, pure magic! But the call of sleep was strong; tomorrow we’ll have another early wake-up call.
We slept soundly in the silence and peace of this enchanting place. Upon awakening, after packing our bags, a breakfast of local flavors gave us the energy to explore the property that hosted us. Inside, a gourmet shop tempted us with its marmalades made from bitter oranges and fragrant lemons; we couldn’t help but stock up for home; a workshop where hands busy creating sweet delights delight our eyes; A spa for relaxing moments, two pools for all ages, paddle tennis courts, and a charming farm—in short, it has it all.
Between archaeology and breathtaking views
After saying goodbye to the owners with the promise of returning soon, we headed towards Palikè, an open-air archaeological park. We admired a rocky ridge that concealed the openings of ancient caves, once home to distant peoples. Unfortunately, time was running out, and we had to postpone our full exploration.
Our next stop? A promontory on which stood a tower, one of five stone sentinels that dotted the area. This privately owned tower, furnished with antiques, exudes a charming, timeless atmosphere. A cozy sitting room beckoned us to linger, and climbing steep stairs, we reached a dream bedroom, with a window framing a breathtaking view of the valley. A few more steps and we reached the top of the tower, on a terrace where a romantic canopy and a hot tub framed a breathtaking landscape… a place where daydreams come true! Imagine yourself immersed in warm water, surrounded by rolling green hills, mosaic-like fields, artificial lakes glistening in the sun, ancient farmhouses telling centuries-old stories, and above us, the splendid Sicilian sky, an infinite blanket of blue… personally, we remained contemplating this paradise for what seemed like an eternity.
Rural Traditions and Lunch on the Estate
Listening to other fascinating tales of the place, so rich in history and mystery, a thought began to creep into our minds: “Did the world really begin in Sicily?”
This unexpected change of plans gave us unique emotions, but the thought of lunch appealed to our senses.
After a short drive, we arrived at an ancient estate, welcomed by the warm hospitality of the hosts. We visited the stables, where tender newborn lambs were hopping around curiously, and the milking parlor, where we were passionately explained the process that transforms milk into cheese.
Finally seated at the table, a parade of delicacies delighted our palates. Antipasti of every kind: cheeses that tasted of pastures and ancient traditions, caponata, olives, crispy arancinetti, melted formaggio in carrozza, fresh and flavorful salads, intensely flavored sausages and salami, pasta dishes that made us fall in love with Sicilian cuisine, and ricotta desserts that crowned the meal with a touch of sweetness. We couldn’t help but honor this generosity of the land!
After a convivial chat and a good coffee, we resumed our journey home.
A thought united us, an echo in our hearts: this is a land rich in resources and wonders that deserve to be discovered and valued in every nuance!
We are ready to live a new experience … and you?
