Another adventure is about to begin. We head into the Sicilian hinterland to discover Centuripe, the easternmost municipality in the province of Enna.
As soon as we arrive in the village, we are immediately enchanted by its breathtaking panoramas, which led Garibaldi to give it the name “Balcony of Sicily”.
One of Centuripe’s characteristics? Definitely its extremely narrow streets, as we personally experienced while driving our car. So, after some difficulty trying not to get stuck in the alleys (obviously the people of Centuripe are used to this…but how do they do it??), we arrive at the meeting point where Elena is waiting for us, a local girl who deeply cares about promoting Centuripe.
Together with Elena, we walk towards the Town Hall, where we have the pleasure of meeting the Mayor. After introductions and a pleasant chat, we visit the exhibition center “L’Antiquarium” located inside the cloister of a former Augustinian convent, where the temporary contemporary art exhibition “Segni” has been set up.
The exhibition was created to include Centuripe among the major Sicilian exhibition centers, but also to enhance its inherited cultural heritage. Dedicated to the great masters of 20th-century art, it displays “82 wonderful original works”, from Cézanne to Picasso, from Kandinsky to Mirò, highlighting the importance of printmaking not merely as a means of reproducing and spreading an image, but as a true work of art tout-court.
Between Art, History and Breathtaking Views
After this wonderful journey into the past, we return to strolling through the streets and alleys of the village, amazed by how much history and nature there is to see and tell. The ancient history of Centuripe has left countless traces, from archaeological finds and monuments to sacred buildings. We discover views and panoramas overlooking the entire territory, all the way to majestic Mount Etna, and we simply cannot resist stopping for a few unique photographs.
But a first culinary stop awaits us, and we absolutely had to taste it…..a true delight, one of the traditional sweets with a crumbly interior covered in chocolate glaze: the “Bersagliere”! If you would like to discover its history and how it is prepared, we refer you to our column Gustando la Sicilia.
We continue our route which takes us to the Regional Archaeological Museum. Did you know that it houses majestic marble statues, including the Head of Octavian Augustus, returned home after 83 years, the Hellenistic Statue of a Muse, the colossal Head of Emperor Hadrian, and many rich prehistoric artifacts that give Centuripe the distinction of preserving one of the most important Roman-era archaeological heritages in Eastern Sicily.
The town is rich in museums of remarkable importance, including the Ethno-anthropological Museum and the Experimental Art Center: “Il Purgatorio”, currently being set up. There are also many churches, among which stand out: the Mother Church of the Immaculate Conception, the Church of Calvary, the Church of the Holy Sacrament, the Church of Saint Joseph, the Church of the Holy Crucifix, the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus or Church of the Forty, the Church of the Annunciation, the Church of Saint Augustine, and the Sanctuary dedicated to Our Lady of Grace.
Culinary Traditions of Centuripe
After a beautiful morning full of discoveries and many kilometers walked, it is finally time to relax, have lunch, chat and enjoy some good wine. Elena and Salvatore, the Mayor of Centuripe, tell us about the village’s culinary traditions while we start taking notes…we are definitely food lovers!
The cuisine of Centuripe is particularly simple and genuine, always linked to peasant traditions.
Among the typical dishes of Centuripe we find: Pasta with wild fennel – “a pasta che finuocchi” –, broad bean soup with lard, and frascatole, a dish traditionally eaten by farmers during very cold periods to keep warm; it is a sort of polenta made with flour of ciciri, chiecchieri e puseddi (chickpeas and peas). There is also the omelet made with “mazzaraddi” (wild cabbage and turnip greens), battered cardoons or “carduna”, and roasted artichokes, which can never be missing from festive tables in Centuripe. Centuripe also boasts excellent saffron production, as well as olives and olive oil, sheep ricotta and Centuripe PGI blood oranges.
Nature, Festivals and Popular Traditions
After lunch, we say goodbye to the Mayor and head together with Elena into the countryside surrounding Centuripe.
In this corner of paradise, nature is characterized by yellow sandstone ridges interspersed with olive groves, almond trees, prickly pears, wild asparagus and dense woodland. In fact, during the first autumn days, mushroom hunting is a pleasant pastime for the people of Centuripe.
This vegetation is ideal for grazing cattle, horses and donkeys, which can be encountered roaming freely; while on the sandstone ridges a species of falcon, difficult to acclimatize elsewhere, has nested and found its natural habitat: the Peregrine Falcon, which unfortunately we were not lucky enough to spot…what a pity!
During the journey, Elena tells us about the most characteristic and heartfelt festivals and fairs of Centuripe; the feast of Saint Joseph, characterized by the tradition of the “virginieddi”, the feast of Saint Rosalia and that of Saint Prospero, both featuring processions of sacred relics and statues of the Saints. On the occasion of Saint Prospero, on September 20th, the traditional fair dedicated to the Saint takes place.
The Spring Festival is another important event, during which a competition is organized for the most original Easter sweets and for the traditional Easter dessert: “il ciciulio”. The creations made can be purchased through donations, and all proceeds from the festival are donated to families in need in Centuripe.
Another opportunity to visit Centuripe is the now-famous Blood Orange Festival, a triumph of sweetness, tradition, products and desserts entirely made with this versatile fruit rich in health benefits. In short, all that remains is for you to visit Centuripe and discover its wonderful realities!
At the end of our journey discovering this splendid village in the Sicilian hinterland, we say goodbye to Elena, thanking her for the hospitality and the many curiosities and wonders she introduced us to, with the promise to return soon!
We are ready to live a new experience…..and you?
