Today we set off to discover new destinations, this time moving to the extreme northern tip of eastern Sicily to explore the stories and traditions of the province of Messina.
We depart from Fiumefreddo di Sicilia towards Milazzo and, despite a few delays along the way (even we islanders sometimes get lost), we finally arrive at our destination where we are welcomed by Manuela, a tour guide partner of Isolani per caso, who, through her enthusiastic storytelling, will bring to life the beauty of this part of the island.

Milazzo Castle, the Fortified Citadel

The first stop of the day is the impressive Milazzo Castle, the largest in Sicily, also known as the Fortified Citadel, as it is one of the finest examples of military architecture built by the various rulers who controlled this area over the past 10 centuries. It stands on the highest part of the Capo Milazzo peninsula, overlooking the old village.

Upon arrival, the gates of the castle open and we are catapulted into the past: the castle is currently closed for safety reasons, but we manage to visit it through a private tour, allowing us to retrace centuries of history.

History and layers of Milazzo Castle

Milazzo Castle was not originally a residence for princes and princesses, but rather an important fortress used to defend the territory from invaders. It is a majestic structure where different architectural layers can be observed, reflecting the various dominations over the centuries: from the Neolithic era, marked by a necropolis, to the Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Swabian, Sicilian Vespers, Aragonese, Spanish, English periods, and even Napoleon. The castle also served as the site of the ancient cathedral of Milazzo and the original church of Santa Maria, and in more recent times became a prison.

Walking through its paths, we can admire watchtowers, bastions, and many points of interest, including the Sea Museum: a striking space located inside the Bastion of Santa Maria where a sperm whale has been fully reconstructed, leaving inside its stomach the plastic that sadly contributed to its death. A powerful moment of reflection, reminding us of the importance of respecting the environment.

Views, Aeolian Islands and Saint Joseph celebrations

As with every castle, we discover many stories and legends that surround it with a mysterious aura—but we won’t reveal those!

Much of its walls overlook the stunning sea of Messina and, on this clear sunny day, we can even see the Aeolian Islands, a unique sight especially for those not used to it. Gulls fly overhead, the scent of the sea fills the air, and blooming fields below signal the arrival of spring. Today is also Saint Joseph’s Day, and from the top of a bastion we can watch midday fireworks in his honor.

Capo Milazzo and lunch with locals

We finish our visit and head by car towards Capo Milazzo, driving along the seafront with a short stop at the viewpoint, where a breathtaking panorama and the evocative Sanctuary of Sant’Antonio di Padova await us—a cave carved into the rock. Our guide tells us that tradition says it was once a refuge and dwelling place of the Saint and local fishermen.

But hunger begins to set in, and Manuela, being a true Sicilian and embodying the island’s hospitality, invites us to lunch at her home. In no time, the table is set, and between conversations and a glass of wine, we enjoy a delicious pasta dish with tomato sauce, tuna, and onion. A coffee later, we are ready to continue our journey.

Roccavaldina and the 16th-century pharmacy

We arrive in the small village of Roccavaldina, where we are amazed to visit the 16th-century pharmacy located in the village square. Looking around with childlike wonder as its history is told to us, we find ourselves immersed in one of the most precious pharmaceutical collections of the 16th century in the world. It is truly moving to see how this place has remained intact over time, evoking memories of the past.

The display of jars is astonishing, with unique decorations: the collection includes 238 vases of various shapes and sizes, made in 1580 in Urbino, in the workshop of Antonio Patanazzi, as confirmed by the inscription on the foot of an exhibition amphora.

Ganzirri Lakes and the “cucciulari” tradition

After leaving the pharmacy, we take a quick walk through the village streets and then head towards the Ganzirri Lakes, where a fisherman is waiting to tell us about the tradition of the “cucciulari”. Even today, thanks to young people who have revived these ancient trades, mussels and clams are still cultivated and exported using traditional methods.

The work of the “cucciulari” is demanding and hard, but the passion with which fisherman Lillo explains the process is truly fascinating and moving.

This place is highly picturesque, with its reflective waters, aquatic vegetation, migratory birds, small houses, and lakeside restaurants. At dusk, it feels like stepping into a fairy tale. As they say… lakes always have something magical about them!

The “Pilone” and the Strait of Messina

After learning more about clam farming and lake wildlife, we continue our journey with a must-see stop at the “Pilone“, an unused transmission tower that once spanned the Strait of Messina between Calabria and Sicily. Here, overlooking a beautiful beach, we can witness the meeting of two seas and it feels almost as if we could touch Calabria.

One thing is certain: this area is always windy, and at sunset the dropping temperatures make it feel like winter has returned! But we don’t give up, and we keep walking, enjoying this stunning view.

Conclusion of the journey

The day has been truly intense, and we were only able to visit a small part of what Messina and its surroundings have to offer. As always, we promise ourselves to return for new stops and new discoveries.

Now it is time to head home, once again filled with new emotions and the desire to start new collaborations.

We are ready for a new experience. … and you?