Weekend discovering new views of Sicily: destination Mistretta, the “Sella dei Nebrodi”

Weekend discovering new views of Sicily, destination Mistretta, the “Sella dei Nebrodi”.
We set off early in the morning as always to reach Mistretta, in the province of Messina.
Mistretta lies between 850 and 1100 meters above sea level, immersed in the beautiful Nebrodi Park.

Mistretta and its panoramic position

It is also known as the “Sella dei Nebrodi” due to its particular position, halfway between Palermo and Messina, close to the sea. Even though it is a mountain town, the view that opens up as we gain altitude is spectacular! From the woods it stretches all the way to the sea, offering views of the Aeolian Islands, especially visible on clear days. When the landscape is covered in snow, it becomes even more enchanting.

Arrival and hospitality in Mistretta

After about two hours by car, passing through the inland areas and crossing the province of Enna, we arrive in Mistretta where Riccardo, our guide for the entire weekend, is waiting for us.
For the occasion we are hosted in his holiday home, a lovely place with a stone patio framed by plants and flowers, creating a warm homely atmosphere.
After leaving our luggage in the room and having a good coffee, we head towards the town center, passing by the Villa Comunale, an important green area known for its variety of plants, once a Capuchin garden attached to the church of San Francesco d’Assisi.

The town center and noble palaces

We begin our walk through the streets of Mistretta with Riccardo, who as an excellent guide tells us that the town dates back to the Greco-Roman period and that its numerous and elegant palaces, such as Palazzo Russo, Palazzo Salomone, and Palazzo Faillaci, belonged to wealthy families, not nobles but landowners.
Mistretta’s economy has always been based mainly on shepherding and agriculture: a must-try is the famous Provola dei Nebrodi DOP, delicious and unique because during its production a green citrus fruit (“verdello”) is inserted inside.

Stonework and local craftsmanship

During our walk we notice the stone façades, the decorative frames of the buildings, and the beautiful wrought-iron balconies. Mistretta once had excellent craftsmanship, from blacksmiths to wood carvers and workers of a particular stone called Quarzarenite.
Extracted from local quarries, it is a natural stone with a golden hue due to its color.
Stopping in front of a small shop, Riccardo suggests we look up at the cornice: can you guess what activity used to be here? It was once a barber shop, as shown by the carved scissors, comb, and razor under the balcony—evidence of how attentive people once were to detail and craftsmanship.

Palazzo Scaduto and historic architecture

We continue our walk and come across one of the oldest, most beautiful and scenic buildings in Mistretta, Palazzo Scaduto, built in Baroque style, with a portal decorated by two majestic sculptures. Inside it preserves the highest “trapanese-style” staircase in Sicily: a suspended monolithic stone staircase typical of 19th-century Trapani civil architecture.

Churches and religious traditions

Mistretta is also rich in churches, 22 in total, so we decide to visit some of them: among these is the Church of San Sebastiano, simple in style with wood and white stone, a blend of ancient and modern, rich in works and paintings by Noè Marullo, a sculptor from Mistretta.
At the center of the altar is the beautiful statue of Saint Sebastian, patron saint of Mistretta.
A curiosity? The vara (statue float) of Saint Sebastian is carried in procession running through the streets in January and in summer, thanks to its devotees. A very striking celebration!

The castle ruins and panoramic views

We continue walking and from afar we see the ruins of Mistretta Castle, reachable in about 15 minutes on foot, offering a breathtaking view over the town all the way to Mount Etna and the Aeolian Islands.

Mother Church and artistic heritage

Another stop in the main square is the Mother Church, dedicated to Saint Lucy. Before entering, we notice the main side portal featuring an eagle, the city’s coat of arms granted by Frederick II, who called it an “imperial city.”
Inside we admire works by Antonio Gagini, the Chapel of the Madonna dei Miracoli, and the Chapel of Santa Maria Odigitria.

Museo delle Tradizioni Silvio Pastorali

We continue towards the Regional Museum of Silvo-Pastoral Traditions.
The first regional demo-ethno-anthropological museum in Sicily, it is dedicated to Giuseppe Cocchiara, an important anthropologist and scholar of popular traditions.

Pastoral life and traditional objects

Inside, we are fascinated by a large collection of painted glass works with sacred figures, among the largest in Europe. We then dive into the past, admiring tools, clothing, reconstructed dwellings called “pagghiaru” (shepherd huts), and various objects used in shepherding, agriculture, grain production, charcoal making, hunting, and wine production. Everything that once sustained Sicilian life.

Traditional tools and curiosities

Riccardo turns the visit into a playful experience, explaining what the “scapularo” was, a shepherd’s cloak made of pressed wool to make it waterproof, and “U fussuni”, a pile of burning wood covered with earth for days to produce charcoal. We also see bells, gourds used as flasks, and cups made from cow horns.

Arab quarter, spa and relaxation

We leave the museum and head to the Arab quarter, then visit another museum dedicated to Sicilian fauna, with taxidermied land and aquatic animals.
Afterwards we relax in a newly opened SPA with stone arches, music, candles, hydromassage pool, sauna, and Turkish bath—pure bliss.
We then have a light lunch and enjoy artisanal ice cream in the town’s most popular café.

Fiumara d’Arte: open-air museum

But the tour is not over! We head towards Fiumara D’Arte.
It is an open-air museum composed of 11 works and installations created by international contemporary artists across the Messina area. It was founded by entrepreneur Antonio Presti, who commissioned the first artwork “La materia poteva non esserci” in memory of his father.

Labyrinth of Ariadne and installations

The first work we visit is the “Labirinto di Arianna”, inspired by the Greek myth of Ariadne’s thread. The structure appears as a coral-colored spiral leading to the Tree of Life at its center.
We walk through it laughing, joking about getting lost, and embrace an olive tree to recharge our energy.

The 38th Parallel Pyramid and the Rito della Luce

We continue visiting works such as “Una curva gettata alle spalle del tempo” and “L’Energia Mediterranea”, until we reach the imposing “38°Parallelo-Piramide”, 30 meters high in corten steel.
A slit on its western side allows sunlight to enter at sunset. The triangle symbolizes Art, Religion, and Philosophy.
It can only be visited on June 21–22 during the “Rito della Luce”.

Final stop and return

The last artwork takes us to the sea: the “Monumento per un Poeta Morto”, also known as the “Finestra sul mare”.

Finally, we return for dinner, where Riccardo takes us to one of the best-known restaurants in town. We enjoy traditional Sicilian food, local wine, and relaxed conversation, closing our journey with new ideas and projects.
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