Discovering Piazza Armerina
Ready for a new journey, we wake up early in the morning to reach Piazza Armerina, a town in the province of Enna.
Waiting for us upon our arrival is Guido, whom we met by chance as often happens (this too is the beauty of Sicily), our local guide for a day, ready to let us discover the many curiosities of the place. After introducing ourselves, our journey begins through stories and interesting facts about the town.
Perhaps not everyone knows that Piazza Armerina stands on a hill of the southern Erei Mountains, a mountain range in central Sicily, mainly located in the central and northern part of the Province of Enna, nestled among dense and extensive woods and a well-known archaeological site, also surrounded by greenery. But there is so much more to discover and today we begin by telling you a small glimpse of this Sicilian wonder.
A B&B Filled with Memories and Traditions
Our day begins with a visit to a very special B&B, where we are welcomed by Salvo, the owner of the house, who, after a good coffee, takes us on a beautiful and heartwarming tour of his property. Every room has its own story and peculiarity, each different from the other, with furnishings made from recycled objects and family memories. From the grandfather’s bicycle, to the desk, to the tuna cans from the old family shop that closed long ago. Everything speaks of affection, life and traditions that deeply touched our hearts. And as often happens, we could not help but be moved while listening to these stories that took us back in time, making us relive moments of real life! These are the experiences we love and want to share with you!
After visiting the interior, we discover the beauty of the large rocks placed in the outdoor area, found by chance during excavation works for the construction of the property. Incredible but true! Although they are rough stones, they naturally resemble the shapes of some animals.
We say goodbye to Salvo and return with Guido to the city center; walking through the narrow streets we reach the Permanent Exhibition of Ancient Books at the Municipal Library “Alceste e Remigio Roccella”, guardian of very ancient manuscripts of remarkable importance and linked to world-renowned figures. We realize that Sicily is rich in history and extremely important testimonies.
We continue our walk and among the many churches (Piazza Armerina is, in fact, known as the city of one hundred churches) and historical monuments, we are struck by the sculpture displayed inside the remains of the deconsecrated Church of Sant’Anna, the “Torso Croce”: a famous sculpture by the Polish artist Igor Mitoraj, depicting a headless human torso carved in the center with a cross-shaped opening. The sculpture is an integral part of the exhibition entitled “L’Abbraccio”, an artistic initiative that symbolically involved and united Piazza Armerina and Noto, both belonging to the Sicilian district of the Val di Noto. We would never have expected so much beauty concentrated within just a few hundred meters.
Art, Nature and Historical Memory
Alleys and narrow streets dominate the scenery until we arrive at the Albergo Suite D’Autore, a real surprise for us! Rooms full of details and artworks of every kind: from lightness, to tradition, to geometry, to magic. “Places without space or time, between reality and fantasy, characterized by the concept of ‘Total Works of Art’”: this is how this unique structure is defined… in short, choosing is not easy! But equally impressive, when turning our gaze outside, is the view of the cathedral and the terrace of the structure from which there is a magnificent panorama over the whole town.
Besides being famous for the Villa Romana del Casale, the territory’s main tourist attraction, Piazza Armerina certainly deserves a visit for the natural landscapes it offers: just a few kilometers from the urban center lies Lake Pergusa with its uncontaminated nature and the mining park of Floristella Grattacalda, where industrial archaeology merges with nature.
In this regard, we discover the opportunity to visit the Permanent Exhibition of Mining Civilization, a small exhibition of great social and cultural interest that preserves stories and legends linked to the hard life in the sulfur mines of Floristella, active until 1986, the year they permanently ceased operations. Through photographic testimonies, a young girl tells us part of the story of the Floristella mines, of the cruelty and hardships of that time. Seeing that even today there are young volunteers interested in our origins and our land gives us hope.
A heartbreaking and moving story at the same time, one that should certainly be heard from the voice of those who experienced it firsthand in order to truly understand its meaning. The mine was founded at the end of the eighteenth century and employed not only adolescents but also children who, in order to bring home some money, worked under truly extreme conditions. For this very reason, it also possesses a particular charm linked to the history of Italian literature, and Sicilian literature in particular, since first Verga, then Pirandello, drew inspiration for two famous short stories such as Rosso Malpelo and Ciaula Discovers the Moon.
Sicilian Traditions and the Palio dei Normanni
Once our morning tour is over, lunchtime arrives and Guido welcomes us to his trattoria, a place also rich in memories and traditions. As soon as we enter, we breathe in the atmosphere of home and authenticity, and all that remains is to enjoy the delicacies that tell the story of the territory.
Lunch is a triumph of typical dishes, all accompanied by strictly Sicilian wines. A succulent lunch that makes your mouth water! With full stomachs, we resume our walk through the streets of Piazza Armerina; before heading back home, we absolutely need to burn off a few calories.
And while we stroll, Guido tells us about the most important event in Piazza Armerina: the Palio dei Normanni, which takes place every year for three days from August 12th to 14th. It is the most important and ancient historical-medieval costume reenactment in Southern Italy, with over 600 participants. The event takes inspiration from the conquest of Sicily by the Normans of Roger d’Altavilla, who ended Arab domination and created the strong and prosperous County of Sicily.
The Palio is linked to the city’s tradition and the devotion of its inhabitants to the patron saint of Piazza Armerina, and it reenacts an episode that took place in the town during the 12th century. A fascinating atmosphere of medieval costumes and sounds accompanies a knightly tournament in the style of the quintain, where the four historic districts of the city compete: Monte, Castellina, Canali and Casalotto.
An engaging event, deeply felt by the people of Piazza Armerina, which excites all spectators!
We say goodbye and thank Guido for accompanying us during this pleasant day, with the desire to return and experience new adventures in Piazza Armerina!
We are ready to live a new experience … and you?
