Towards the Province of Ragusa

After a few months of absence, we set off again to discover the places and curiosities of the province of Ragusa.
The road to get there is always a magical moment: early spring panoramas, green hills as far as the eye can see, seem drawn on a canvas with a brush! Bright green and ochre-yellow meadows, lilac and yellow flowers sprouting here and there, already in full bloom, intersecting with the white stone, typical of the area. But the most interesting things, the ones that stand out to the eye, are the waterways, the terraces with dry stone walls, the little bridges, the villages visible in the distance, and the whitewashed dirt roads leading to ancient farmhouses… all of this always enchants us!

Discovering Ragusa Ibla

The initial stop is Ragusa Ibla, a jewel nestled in the Irminio River valley. A splendid city of art and culture that steals your heart with its beauty, where past and present merge.

According to legend, Ragusa Ibla was founded by a Sican princess named Hybla, daughter of the Sican king Hyblon, known for her beauty and wisdom. One day, Hybla decided to found a new city, which would become a center of culture and trade. She chose a strategic location, on a hill overlooking the Irminio River valley. The city was named Hybla in her honor, which she governed with wisdom and justice, prospering under her reign.

But let’s return to our journey and discover an ancient convent renovated and transformed into a timeless place, where the friars’ cells have become rooms for guests to stay in, while the ancient refectory has become a restaurant where you can try local recipes. While imagining ancient stories and local legends, you can try your hand at a cooking class, discovering typical Ragusa recipes and more.

Gloria, who has been managing the facility for a few years, welcomes us.

After a pleasant coffee break, our visit to this enchanting place begins, where you can still admire the works and structures of the past that marked the routine of the monks who lived there.

From the large windows along the corridor of the former convent, the cloister opens up before our eyes, with its well, now set for breakfast, once a place of prayer punctuated by the sundials still present on the walls. We climb the stairs to the upper floor and begin to smell the delicious aroma of fennel and chickpeas; everything is almost ready for the cooking class that will take place shortly.

We enter the rooms, which are certainly basic, having been converted from the cells where the Capuchin friars once lived, but the view of the Hyblaean gardens, among the oldest in Ragusa, certainly makes the trip worthwhile.

The beauty of this place can be seen even from the outside. Relaxation is the key, and the view before us would certainly tempt us to stay for an aperitif. After a few more chats, we say goodbye and continue our day.

Flavors and Tradition in the Historic Center

We reach the historic center. Luckily, the weather is favorable, with sunshine and blue skies for a few photos. Here, strolling through the characteristic narrow streets, we arrive at “La Terrazza dell’Orologio,” a very welcoming trattoria and pizzeria.

We’re starting to feel hungry, so given the warm, spring-like day, we decide to have lunch on the terrace, where we can enjoy a wonderful view of the entire city. Mr. Giovanni, an excellent host and delightful entertainer, offers us a delicious lunch made with locally sourced ingredients. These include an appetizer of grilled Ragusano cheese with honey, trofie with fennel, ravioli with ricotta and Nebrodi pork sauce, orecchiette with beef stew and fondue, a good white wine, and finally, fried sweet ravioli with ricotta… Everything was delicious, as we Sicilians would say, “di liccarisi i baffi”!

We thank Giovanni and continue our tour.

A delicious stop in Modica

We arrive in Modica……and why not try some real Modica chocolate? We enter one of the most renowned chocolate shops in the area, where you can taste and purchase a wide variety of Modica chocolate, from the simplest to the refined chocolate, with unique flavors such as fennel, anise, lavender, tobacco, and many others. Valentina welcomes us, carefully explaining the artisanal production process, and offers us a taste of refined chocolate paired with Vermouth, an explosion of all the senses!

We discover that the name chosen by the producer has a profound meaning, referring to the day that doesn’t exist, “the day when we slow down, when we reflect on what is truly important,” made up of all those small moments when we enjoy what we do, which contribute to a sense of well-being for body and soul.

We bid farewell to Valentina for a quick visit to the Duomo di San Giorgio, a few photos, and then off to an enchanting baglio in Vittoria, where we’ll be hosted by Fausta, the hostess.

Relaxation in a baglio in the Vittoria countryside

We arrive at the baglio, an oasis immersed in the greenery and silence of the countryside.

Alberto, Fausta’s collaborator, welcomes us and, after offering us some excellent almond milk made with their own almonds, takes us on a tour of the baglio.

A marvelous structure, antique furnishings and modern touches create a magical atmosphere; two large fireplaces frame the relaxation area, once a wine press, and the restaurant room; an antique piano, candelabras, family photos, sofas, armchairs, chests of drawers, and trunks evoke the beauty of the noble furnishings of the past, with fragrant splashes of color created by the ever-fresh flowers in every corner of the baglio.

Outside, there are several small gardens with aromatic plants, including rosemary, sage, mint, thyme, savory, marjoram, lavender, basil, parsley, lemongrass, and oregano, as well as a variety of vegetables, from broccoli to chicory, chard, peas, broad beans, pumpkins, and zucchini. Olive and fruit trees abound, offering a variety to enjoy right at the table: everything is locally sourced!

The farmhouse is surrounded by greenery, and as we continue our stroll, we spot a relaxing spot… the swimming pool and, next to it, the kitchen, complete with a wood-fired oven. The smells of dinner preparation immediately evoke our grandmothers, a true journey back in time!

After touring the entire property, we settle into our room; wood, majolica, and white stone evoke the Sicilian charm we love so much. After a well-deserved rest, we prepare for dinner. While we wait, we sip a glass of white wine with the other guests. As soon as we sit down, a relaxing atmosphere envelops us, almost like being at home!

Well, what can I say… every course is a delight! From caponata to macco di fave, from pasta with broccoli and muddica atturrata (breadcrumbs sautéed in olive oil), to an excellent meat dish, finishing with a delicious ricotta dessert with crumble and blackberry and pomegranate sauce.

It’s been a long day, certainly full of emotions. Tired but satisfied, we go to sleep: tomorrow another intense day awaits us in Scicli, where we’ll see something unique before returning home.

As always, we wake up early, but today, unfortunately, the weather is gloomy! We pack our bags, and today we’re ready for another 100% local breakfast. Upon entering the dining room, the fireplace adds a touch of enchantment. Our eyes are immediately drawn to the many dishes laid out on a majestic table, from sweet to savory, from fruit to wine… and, as always, we love good food, and we try everything. How could anyone resist?

It’s time to say goodbye, and after a final tour of the garden, a few videos, and photos, we thank you for this dream stay! We’ll definitely be back to try one of the many experiences the baglio offers.

The Cavalcade of San Giuseppe

Our next stop is Scicli, where we’re going to see a festival with very ancient origins. It is said, in fact, to be part of the sacred dramas performed in the Middle Ages to propitiate the harvest: “The Ride of Saint Joseph,” entered in the register of Intangible Cultural Heritage protected by UNESCO in 2011.

This event takes place every year on the Saturday closest to March 19th, the feast day of Saint Joseph, in honor of the saint. A special flower display is held, featuring magnificent horses adorned with capes made of lightweight metal and adorned with the wallflower, or “u balucu” in the local dialect, reenacting the flight into Egypt.

The cavalcade winds through the streets of the historic center, passing by Scicli’s most important churches. The riders accompanying the harnessed horses are dressed in black velvet trousers, matching vests, white shirts, and black boots, with the traditional “burritta” hat on their heads. During the festival, to demonstrate their devotion to the Saint, they chant: “Patrià, Patrià, Patriaaarca!!!” A true competition between the various teams, which concludes on Sunday with the awarding of the most beautiful harness, chosen by a jury.

We are enchanted by such beauty, skill, color, and human warmth.

Back Home

Our weekend is almost over, but as always, we return home with a wealth of emotions, beauty, and the excellent hospitality that distinguishes Sicily and us Sicilians!

We are ready to live a new experience….and you?